NapolĂ©onâs JosĂ©phine is the muse behind this elegant timepiece. By Joanne Glasbey
This glamorous pear-shaped white gold watch is truly striking and features a diamond set and engraved dial. With a v-shaped aigrette (spray) arrangement of gems and trompe-l'oeil index on its dial, this is a remarkable timepiece, but it also comes with a fascinating history linking it to NapolĂ©onâs wife, JosĂ©phine.
NapolĂ©on Boneparte and the Empress JosĂ©phine, his first wife, are very much in the air at the moment because of Ridley Scottâs latest film, Napoleon, which explores the volatile relationship and great passion between them. JosĂ©phine, portrayed in the film by actor Vanessa Kirby, was a powerful and romantic figure: beautiful, daring, her reign at court only rivalled by her influence on fashion and jewellery.
JosĂ©phineâs preferred styles are preserved in the many portraits of her by renowned artists of the day, but her favoured jewellery designs can still be traced today in the creations of French jewellery maison Chaumet. The story goes that in 1805 in Milan, as she and NapolĂ©on prepared to be crowned King and Queen of Italy, they met François-RĂ©gnault Nitot, the founderâs son of the house that would become Chaumet, who presented a sumptuous tiara commissioned by NapolĂ©on. She adored it and declared the maison her jeweller of choice. As Empress of a new regime whose splendour had to be displayed, JosĂ©phine dressed in gold, pearls and precious stones. Her jewellery often evoked symbols favoured by NapolĂ©on from antiquity: laurels, oak leaves. At her first official appearance as sovereign, JosĂ©phine wore a tiara adorned with diamond ears of wheat, an emblem of prosperity and a motif that was regularly interpreted for her.
A modern woman by todayâs terms, she was an independent spirit, reinventing fashion and imposing her style. To refine her sovereign look, she brought tiaras, symbols of power and femininity, back into fashion. She liberated herself from conventions and corsets, draping herself in airy veils, fine silk tulles and diaphanous muslins. An inspiration for her husband, JosĂ©phine commissioned many sentimental jewels from Chaumet. Today, the house honours its historic muse with collections in her name, showcasing modern femininity with creations that are both elegant and audacious, echoing the spirit of the Empress.
Each JosĂ©phine collection interprets signature elements that were close to her heart: the pear-shaped jewel, also configured in a uniquely shaped watch; the aigrette, a spray of gems in a âvâ shape; interplays of symmetry; bold and elegant colours; transformable jewellery. Understated yet striking, the jewellery plays with volume while channelling character â that of Empress JosĂ©phine â in its beauty.
Chaumet Joséphine Aigrette watch in white gold and diamonds, with engraved dial and blue alligator strap, £12,200; Chaumet, 174 New Bond Street W1S 4RG; chaumet.com
Napoleon is in cinemas now
Joanne Glasbey is the editor of The Timesâ Luxx Watches & Jewellery magazine